Well it has been about 4 years without talking on the radio,So I decided it was about time to bite the bullet and install a radio in the "B" the radio and antenna went fine no problems good match.
But when I throw the amp in line as soon as I key up It throws a code for Ignitioncoil #1 primary circuit fault would this be just RF overload or a sign of a coil going bad?
Or would the sudden voltage drop cause it?
Scott
i would THINK, and ill be the first to tell you i really dont KNOW, that it would be the sudden voltage drop thats causing the code throw. i dont know a whole lot about hooking up inline amps to CB Radios but is it possible to also put a Capacitor inline as well? that might take the stress of of the ignition system just long enough to allow the voltage to stabilize.
just a thought......
wheres Tomas? he'd know
I would hook up a voltage meter and see what is happening. When you disconnect it, do you have the code?
When I key up the voltage drops to about 9 to 10 volts and the car shakes for a second.It dose'nt matter if it is hooked up or not if it is on it will throw a code when it is off it works normal.I may try shielding the ECM with lead sheet to cut back on any RF getting into it (Or maybe copper).
Scott
Linears often cause problems with the electronics in modern cars, as most signal leads in cars are not shielded against strong RF sources
inside the vehicle. Even just the leakage of RF back into the vehicle power can be enough to cause a problem.
Extremely good bonding and grounding of all added components, careful routing of all leads away from wires that connect to the ECU (just about everything in a modern vehicle), and RF pass-through filters on radio and amp power leads can often eliminate the problems.
Shielding of all RF cables needs to be extremely good, and high quality, low leakage coax MUST be used. (I always went with the mil-spec double shielded cables.)
Finally, additional grounding of potentially poorly grounded body panels (especially the hood) to help shield the OEM wiring and components should be done. If not, those panels can act as an antenna instead of a shield.
Mounting a powerful RF source inside an electronically controlled vehicle is more than just bolting it in, hooking it up and powering it on. The installation needs to be planned to prevent everything from frying the ECU to setting off the airbags, to interfering with the ABS or TRAC systems.
Have fun!
I might have to find something smaller like a 600 watt and try again then work down from there.
Scott
Heck, I've seen RF problems with just 100-150 watt commercial radios, as most linears for CB are in general pretty flaky (being illegal and all), they generally are a lot sloppier in their shielding and in their protection of their power source from noise.
What you may even have is a poor connection on the low voltage side of your #1 ignition coil.
Running a power level two orders of magnitude over the legal limit is just asking for it with today's vehicle electronics.
Heck, I just saw you have a CF hood - no shielding of your engine compartment from the near-field RF.
Easiest solution is to lose the footwarmer...
Problem's all yours now.
told you Tomas would know hehe
shoot, then i better not run my zenith tube amp with my galaxy II . . . . .
shoot, then i better not run my zenith tube amp with my galaxy II . . . . .
Now thats a blast from the past,Have'nt seen a galaxy II in years.
Scott
Heh. My first in a car (1966 Volvo 122S) was a Pearce-Simpson Guardian 23 tube-type monster (easily pushed to 40W).