Does anyone else have an oil pressure gauge installed. My bounces all over depending on how warm the engine is and the RPMs it also blips and jumps if you tap the breaks or turn on the headlights. I don't doubt that the shop I had install it could have done something wrong but I wanted to check with everyone before I paid someone else to look it over.
i have one (autometer phantom) and it does bounce around a bit depending on temp and RPM.
cold start up is high, i think around 80 PSI
5k RPM is almost 100 PSI
idle at operating temp is only around 20 PSI
however........ it doesn't do anything if i turn my headlights on or touch the breaks that ive ever noticed.
i guess i should make another video with the range that it goes threw
I agree with the high I am just worried about the low. when the engine is warm and I pull up to a stop light with the brakes on the pressure sometimes drops to 2 psi. I figure that it might be a bad ground or something and that with the headlights or breaklights on it is reading about 10 psi low. not that big of a deal just have to keep watching it.
I have the glowshift gauges. My oil press like Carls 'cept on a warm idle, then it's around 5-10 lbs. My money is on the cheap ass sending units that went with these gauges. My temp is off on the low side by about 30 degrees. I just haven't taken the time to order some decent senders yet
you might have a week ground but then again you might just have a cheep sending unit like Peej said.
i have delt with autometer stuff befor and i knew there was nothing better, so when it came time for me to do this mod i knew just who to call.
all 3 meters ran me just over $160 with the needed sending units and i installed them myself. i did mod them and put some inverted flat head 194 LEDs in them that gave me the same briteness and the speedo. i tried some other LEDs but they were too brite and put alot of glare up on my windsheild.
the install was simple, just alot of wires to run, each meter has 4 wires.
Sounds OK per the shop manuals, but I would check the installation of the sender and instruments because changes in the electrical system (brake lights, headlights) should NOT make the gauges move other than possibly a slight flick and back to where they were.
wow scion is kinda loose on what the PSI should be
at idle = 4.3 PSI or more
at 3k RPM = 22-80 PSI or more
so.............. if im at 3k RPM and im only getting 22 PSI..... then thats ok?
if im only getting 22 PSI at 3k RPM then im going to start thinking about whats wrong with my motor.
i belive most everything Tomas comes up with to help people, but i think scion should be a bit more specific.
Modern Toyota engines use much lighter and much tougher oil than older engines, and depend only on getting a thin film of oil to the moving parts.
No longer are we trying to push sludge like my old Volvos required (20W50) through narrow passages, we are just trying to keep parts bathed in the newer spec much lighter oils that are great at handling high pressures between parts precision machined like a sewing machine (which Toyota has made for decades).
The objective is not pressure so much as moving adequate amounts of very light oil to where it is needed.
Wow, those specs are very broad. One day your at 3k and 22psi, then the next day your at 70psi. That just doesn't make sense. Maybe those are workable specs.
